Good Times In The Big Easy

When you read about New Orleans or someone tells you about the place. Whether fiction or factual the stories all seem to revolve around the same thing - Having a good time! The nightlife, the bars, the people and the music all combine to make the Big Easy one of the THE places to let your hair down and just party!

Katrina may have taken some of the people away but the feel good vibe had survived to some extent and whilst the bars may not have been heaving all over town there were places that still seemed to be thriving.

Whilst Bourbon Street may be the main tourist trap and home to bar after bar packed with tourists its still worth an evening spent supping on a bottle of MGD or Bud and catching some of the live music that thrives here. Jazz can be heard all over town, some of it annoying enough to give you a splitting headache in a little over 5 minutes. Jazz may not be my thing but being in New Orleans I gritted my teeth to sample a few bands hoping that somewhere along the line something would click with me. It still hasn't yet! Luckily jazz didn't fill every bar in town!

On my first evening in my new City I'd wound up going into town with a large group from the hostel and we'd taken ourselves away from Bourbon Street to Frenchman Street. Things here were a little different. The bars were full and there wasn't the sleaze around that was synonymous with Bourbon Street. Suffice to say the drinks flowed and as the hours flew past the group had split and I'd wound up supping a pint of "Purple Haze" - A local fruit beer in a place called Mi-Mi's where I had absolutely no idea where I was! That's what good nights are made of!


A few days into my stay in New Orleans and most of the people I'd been with, including me had felt like we'd seen Bourbon Street and hung around the French Quarter for our entertainment enough now. We wanted to get away from the tourists traps and get to actually meet some locals. The decision was made to head into the Downtown area, one we were strongly advised to stay away from, for an evening in the hopes of experiencing something a little different.

What we found was quite unexpected in a lot of ways but makes perfect sense the more you think about it. Initially we dumped ourselves in a couple of bars, these places were packed out and full of local spirit. There was a slightly uneasy feeling that we hadn't been invited but were never made to feel unwelcome. Some of the woman seemed a little wary of us and we couldn't help but think they were wondering why we weren't in the French Quarter with all the other out of towners.

A couple of people were kind enough to point us in the right direction for a decent club for the remainder of the night. If was a mixed bag of an affair and I had a feeling of being well and truly ignored for the most part, then as I was just about to call it a night it all changed. I was stood at the bar about to grab a soft drink before going home when the guy stood next to me got wind of my Nationality. "Let me buy you a drink". I was unsure, but he continued insistent "I wanna introduce you to some of my friends". The next thing I knew I had a bottle of beer in my hand and was chatting to a top bunch of people.

Whilst they wanted to know what the hell I was doing out here they were, all of them, thanking me for being here. I didn't really know what to make of it all. Suddenly we'd become mini celebs for a few moments. "Hey this guys from England, come and say hi" seemed to reverberate around the room despite the noise levels only allowing it to carry to the person next to the man shouting it.


The whole night was turning out to be quite surreal and without doubt exactly what we had been looking for. It didn't stop there either, as we were leaving I was caught and grabbed by a lass outside who, it seemed, had taken an instant shine to me. I have to admit to being totally taken in by her. We spoke for no longer than 30 minutes and I couldn't tell you her name but it was, strange as it may seem, one of those unforgettable moments on an unforgettable night.

All You Can Elvis

Beale Street maybe Downtown Memphis' big attraction but its slightly out of town superstar attraction is unquestionably the most visited tourist site in Tennessee. Graceland. Former home to Elvis. One of those rare superstars that need just the one name to be instantly recognisable.

I was always going to do it if I came to Memphis but learning that the most basic tour was priced at a staggering $33 was hardly music to a budget travellers ear. I would just have to suck it up and set off with Steve to explore all things Elvis. The tour itself gave us roughly 2 and a half hours to see everything and be back on the bus. Now when I say everything I mean the small portion of attractions that the basic ticket allows.

The key part of the deal though is covered. The mansion that was once home to "The King". Its smaller than you may think but jam packed with artifacts and a nifty audio tour (one of the best I've experienced) guides you through the various rooms. Having never been particularly into the man or his music it was interesting to learn about the man himself as I toured around. Its certainly an impressive place but only the most dedicated of fans would need more than a couple of hours to see it all.





Outside in what was essentially the back garden there was a tranquil vibe and an air of reflectiveness in the air as you passed by the pool where earlier video clips of a happy, full of life Elvis were being shown and onto the Presley family graves. This certainly gave me a lump in my throat and can only imagine what it must be like for those hardcore Elvis fans who make the pilgrimage here to pay tribute to their hero.



Feeling like we had covered the house we were left with just enough time to use the other available portion of our tickets and go take a quick look around Lisa Marie. I'm referring to Elvis' private jet before anyone gets the wrong impression! Whilst its certainly impressive and decked out to make the man feel like royalty its actually a little smaller than I had imagined once you get inside.


$33 lighter we headed back into town where an equally impressive experience befell us of an altogether different ilk! You've probably seen it on telly or in a film or heard stories of it somewhere but the giant steak challenge became a reality in Memphis. As I sat munching away on a somehow fatty looking salad a family entered the restaurant and took seat s just a table away. Giant beef challenge. I'd seen it on the menu. Complete the thing and all the trimmings in under an hour and earn your place on the wall of fame. Images of Bart trying to force feed Homer Simpson when no more meat would go down sprang to mind. Now here was a real life Homer, somewhat embarrassed family in tow as Dad ordered the mighty meat challenge. He'd even get his $19.99 for the meal should he complete it!

We didn't have the will to sit through the hour just to see if he could munch his way through a hefty four pounds of meat along with bread, fries and trimmings. I left smile on my mug that I had even had a chance to witness a true taste of Americana!

A trip to the Rock'n'Soul museum capped off the Memphis tourist trap day and again I felt somewhat disappointed. The place was fairly small and the exhibits mostly uninspiring. Coupled with what seemed like a never ending audio guide that wanted to keep talking at you like Cliff in Cheers it failed to set my world on fire.


Memphis as a whole had disappointed. Maybe I'd just fallen in love with Nashville and that had negatively impacted on my impression. It surely didn't help having to stay in a motel some distance out of town. I'd met several people along the way who had advised me that you really didn't need too long in Memphis. Some had done it as a day trip from Nashville to go and see Graceland and on reflection 2 nights would have been plenty. I decided to take it easy on my final day, making the most of my own room, some peace and quiet, a nice shower and a TV in my room. It was heaven to do for a day and helped recharge the batteries for a 5am start to get to New Orleans!

Getting the Memphis Blues

Before leaving home I'd heard the stories, been told the tales and listened to the warnings. Greyhound was, in almost all cases, very bad news! My journey from Nashville to Memphis was my first chance to live this transportation experience first hand! I'd taken the warnings (or some of them) on board and this would at least be a short daytime trip.

It didn't start well. I'd arrived early and booked my ticket in plenty of time but the bus was oversubscribed. It was one of those stories I'd heard. The people telling me about their experiences flooding my head. How long would I be waiting here? Would another bus come?

I was somewhat dubious about trying to ask for help given the woman at the ticket counter had failed miserably to understand me. She'd asked for my name, even asked me to spell it. I duly obliged only to get a ticket in the name of Mr Timmeo. Hardly the most encouraging of signs. Still I was reliably informed that a 2nd bus would be along shortly.

As it turned out this was possibly the best thing that could have happened. Now I understand if you're in a rush or have a connection then this is hardly the ideal situation but the half hour delay meant a half empty bus and a couple of seats all to myself. A couple of stops and fours hours later I was in Memphis. Hardly the nightmare journey I had envisaged.

I had decided to cut my stay in Memphis down to just 3 nights after being told by many that it just wasn't worth it. Coupled with my enjoyment of Nashville and no hostel in Memphis it seemed like a sensible decision to add the extra day onto Nashville. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I've ever made.

They don't appear to used to backpackers in Memphis. Indeed no hostel is a sure sign of that for starters. Budget options are not plentiful and I found myself staying in a Super 8 motel some distance out of town. Indeed arriving there I wondered where the hell I was! Cast away in the middle of nowhere off a couple of main roads and surrounded by very little indeed. My enquiry at the desk about where I could find food nearby was met initially by some driving instructions. I informed the man I didn't have a car. His 2nd reaction was laughter. His third was to hand me a pizza leaflet. Nice.

I was joined mid pizza munching by Steve who had arrived a day earlier from Nashville and the two of us headed out via the hostel "shuttle" (aka someones car) downtown to spend an evening with the City Centre's number 1 attraction - Beale Street.

Renowned for its plentiful bars and live blues music Beale street has traditionally been the heart and soul of Memphis. I went with high expectations of a blues equivalent of Nashville what I actually found was rather disappointing.

We took a walk from one end to the other to see what was available and decided to bar hop for a bit just to sample what was on offer in various establishments. The first bar we took our money to was, unfortunately, a sign of things to come. A splattering of maybe 3 or 4 people and us. The Cardinals weer up on the screen behind the bar but there was little else there to make it worthwhile staying past an opening beer.

Our search for some life too us through several more bars of a similar ilk. Dead, soulless places. Maybe on the weekend it gets livelier here but after Nashville there was an undoubted disappointment in what lay before us.

We did eventually find a place with some live music and more of an atmosphere, our jubilation was short lived though on learning that 90% of those in the bar were fresh off a Contiki Tour. We ended up staying to they kicked us out at the midnight hour (not exactly rock'n'roll opening times!) and found our way to one final bar, in fact the only one we could find open and joined the handful of other people whiling the late hours away with another beer.

All in all Beale Street didn't just fail to impress it downright depressed. Maybe we were spoilt in Nashville. Maybe my expectations were too high but Beale Street just didn't cut it for me. Not one little bit.

Music City!

Live music may have been the core of my time in Nashville but there was plenty of other things going on as well. As American Cities go Nashville has a fairly compact feeling to it and is pretty easy to walk around getting from place to place.

With the Country Music Festival in town, things were going on all over the place. Live music was of course everywhere but that aside there were funfairs and shows, free gifts and competitions to enter. I've never seen pain killers given out on the street before and I have to admit being a little baffled by the concept!

Among the entertainment was the MLB roadshow. I passed by the batting cage and saw people pitching against the speed gun. I nervously watched for a while before plucking up the courage to have a go myself. Needless to say its not as easy as it looks. It certainly isn't like throwing a cricket ball. My first few pitches wound up a mile off the strike zone and although I did end up getting it a little closer, a 55mph fastball isn't likely to see me into the majors any time soon! I wasn't going to leave without having a swing of the bat too! Obviously there were people doing this who knew what they were doing. It seems like every kid at least learns some parts of the sport. Me, I'd never done this before and know what I know from watching it. Playing it is a different matter entirely. After a couple of swings and misses I did get the hang of it and was pleased just to be making contact with the balls that were coming at me (on what was probably the lowest speed). Whether I was crap or not didn't really matter to me, I'd finally had a go at it and had great fun in doing so!


In a place known as "Music City" there's more music to it than just the live variety. Record Companies, recording studios and offices fill whats known as Music Row - A section just outside the downtown area chock full of industry buildings. Indeed, artists come to Nashville to both record and play here. for many its a dream realised when they finally do. One such example was stying at my hostel. A guy called Lawrence had brought himself, his music and his guitar for the festival. You could see by the look in his eye that the whole thing had engulfed him. It seemed to turn a confident man into a nervous, bewildered one. Perhaps it was the realisation that there was so much talent here already or that his songs just might not cut it. Whatever it was the enthusiasm seemed to drain within a few days. Had it been me I would have wanted to be out there playing wherever and whenever I could and I got the impression he had come with such intentions but what I saw was a man afraid it seemed by what he was witnessing and awestruck by the experience.

I went to experience Music Row for myself, to see first hand the other heart of Nashville. Its impressive for sure. Building after building housing studio after studio interspersed with Record Company Headquarters or offices. Giant guitars surrounded many of the buildings, with road names dedicated to the great artists of yesteryear. There's no doubt that this City lives up to its billing!




Nashville is also home to a rather bizarre replica of the Parthenon. It seems so much out of place amidst everything else here. Set away in Centennial Park, just a few minutes walk from the hostel its place is not a natural one. It was designed as an exact replica of the Greek structure to go with Nashville's billing as the "Athens of The South". Now, I'm not entirely sure where that came from. There seems to be very little evidence of anything in this City being Greek at all, this building aside of course.



My three days in Nashville turned into five in the end. I had a real feel for the place. Its addictive in so many ways. The atmosphere and vibe of the place is relaxed, polite yet party filled. Its people and those visiting were friendly and welcoming and the ability to listen to live music all day, every day is bliss. The beer flowed, the music rolled and my time flew! Heck I was even doing the "Holla and Swalla" like a local by the time I left (if you're not sure what on earth that is, see the pic below. Raise your glass, scream your head off "Holla" and then drink your beer "Swalla" - Easy really)! Nashville, I WILL be back one day!

What the hell is CMT?

I was sat in St Louis, perusing the Internet when an email popped up from the hostel I had booked in Nashville. A somewhat unusual request was contained within. Apparently they wanted payment up front for the 3 days I had booked there due to something called the CMT Festival.

My curiosity obviously got the better of me and I googled said event only to be horrified by what I saw. The Country Music Festival! OH MY GOD! I was going to be in Nashville during the biggest Country Music Event in the World! Many thoughts ran through my mind, most of which had involved me wondering how on earth I was going to deal with 3 days of nothing but Country Music, of Country Music obsessed fans. I remember feeling like I was in my own private nightmare!

I happened to mention this to Emily when I saw her, only to be laughed at (sympathetically of course) "So do you know any country music?" She asked. "Do the Dixie Chicks count" I feebly replied. More laughter "Oh and I know that Achy Breaky Heart Song". More laughter, less controlled this time. I felt a sick feeling in my stomach.

And so it was that I came to be in Nashville for the Country Music Festivities of 2006. Unwilling to spend the rather hefty sums of money required to get passes to the main events I satisfied myself with the live music that seemed to be oozing from virtually every bar in town. Besides what was the point of paying to see someone you dont know sing a pile of songs you don't know when I could get that for free in any of the plentiful bars on Broadway and down 2nd.

From 10am till 2 or 3am the live music rolled out of bar after bar. During the day I was happy enough just plonking myself down in a bar, writing, listening and watching. Taking in the atmosphere, the people, the vibe. I knew very little of any of the songs, occasionally something by Johnny Cash would ring familiar bells or Lynyrd Skynyrd would become recognisable. Generally though I just took it all in. Some of it I found I actually quite liked, I mean, I couldn't define what it was or if it was one sort of Country Music but there were definitely things I preferred.





I could sit, sup a beer or 2, listen and watch some cool live music, write and chat (they would have the volume just perfect for it) and then when it was something I wasn't over keen on I could move on, find another bar and so it went on. I must have visited a pile of different bars over my time there, seen dozens of live bands, even got myself an autograph or 2 - Sometimes the artists would come round during a show and just sign stuff, wanting a little souvenir but having nothing for them to sign I got them to scribble in my journal. I think its made for a nice keep sake.

The Stage and Tootsies became my favourite hang outs and places I went back to visit the most. Tootsies I later learnt had a very storied history in Nashville. It was the place so many artists and bands had begun their playing careers or been talent spotted. It was in this bar that something quite unexpected happened.



I'd met an Aussie called Steve back at the hostel and the two of us had decided to go and check out some of the bars and music in town. This ended up being put on hold as the two of us were asked to be part of a documentary being filmed in Nashville by a Polish group staying at our hostel. We'd both agreed to it and after signing our lives away for them we were given our instructions. They asked me to appear to be teaching this woman how to play a country song on the guitar. Having never heard the song before I had no idea of the tempo of how it really went, I just had the chords and that was pretty much it.. Still, they seemed happy enough with it and got me to whack out a few other tunes as well before I left, the cameras still taking all the action in. It was certainly a strange experience and I guess not everyone can claim to have been on a Polish documentary!


We finally did manage to get into town and bounced around between bars to see what was going on and what some of the ones I hadn't been in were like. Obviously I knew very little of the music but the odd song was starting to become familiar and we were both now able to sing a few words to "I Love this Bar". Of course we had no idea whose song it was, we'd both just heard it a few times and we pleasantly surprised to catch a cool bluegrass version of it while we were out an about. Later in teh even we'd ended up in Tootsies and John Stone (who I'd seen earlier on in my time in Nashville) was playing so we decided to stay for a bit. We'd got chatting to a couple of lasses who were in town for the festivities but were getting a little tired of the music after John Stone had finished and were thinking of leaving. It was announced shortly afterwards that ABC wanted to get in and so some filming so they were locking the doors. If you wanted to leave you had to do it now or else go to the upstairs bar and wait for about 30 minutes.



Not feeling like we could be bothered to wait around we had decided to leave when one of the girls turned to us and said "Don't go, when they do this it normally means that someone good is going to be playing". Thinking it could be interesting, we followed the girls upstairs. They seemed to know what they were doing so we stuck around the back of the upstairs bit nearest the stair to get back down again.

Rumours upstairs started going round that a band called "Sugarland" were going to be playing. Now, of course this name meant absolutely nothing to neither Steve nor I. We were being told all sorts of stories ranging from the "they're really not that good" to "Think Nashville's U2" Whilst this may have been a rather big overestimation of their size they seemed to be a pretty well known, popular band. The pushing and shoving for position started creeping in.

45 minutes passed before we got the go ahead to make our way downstairs again. Somehow what we saw when we got to the bottom of the stairs was not the half empty room we expected but one already packed to the rafters. Locked doors my ass! Still they allowed just a few people from upstairs in, and being amongst the first few down we were allowed in. The girls were pretty excited by the whole thing and we were both getting into the mood of the occasion.

TV cameras were everywhere, apparently it was to be screened in an ABC special. The band played just a few songs, a couple of them I realised, I'd heard many times over the course of the past few days. Only know did it actually click that they were Sugarland's songs and here they were performing in a cramped by, free of charge to me and just a few others! The girls were teaching us the words and we were trying to sing along as best we could. The band shot back out the door pretty soon after they'd finished but I was totally blown away by the whole event. The atmosphere in there was just incredible, it seems everyone knew all the songs and the band captured me in those moments they were on stage. It was all starting to make me realise that some of this country music stuff was actually alright! Who the hell saw THAT coming??!!