It didn't start well. I'd arrived early and booked my ticket in plenty of time but the bus was oversubscribed. It was one of those stories I'd heard. The people telling me about their experiences flooding my head. How long would I be waiting here? Would another bus come?
I was somewhat dubious about trying to ask for help given the woman at the ticket counter had failed miserably to understand me. She'd asked for my name, even asked me to spell it. I duly obliged only to get a ticket in the name of Mr Timmeo. Hardly the most encouraging of signs. Still I was reliably informed that a 2nd bus would be along shortly.
As it turned out this was possibly the best thing that could have happened. Now I understand if you're in a rush or have a connection then this is hardly the ideal situation but the half hour delay meant a half empty bus and a couple of seats all to myself. A couple of stops and fours hours later I was in Memphis. Hardly the nightmare journey I had envisaged.
I had decided to cut my stay in Memphis down to just 3 nights after being told by many that it just wasn't worth it. Coupled with my enjoyment of Nashville and no hostel in Memphis it seemed like a sensible decision to add the extra day onto Nashville. It turned out to be one of the best decisions I've ever made.
They don't appear to used to backpackers in Memphis. Indeed no hostel is a sure sign of that for starters. Budget options are not plentiful and I found myself staying in a Super 8 motel some distance out of town. Indeed arriving there I wondered where the hell I was! Cast away in the middle of nowhere off a couple of main roads and surrounded by very little indeed. My enquiry at the desk about where I could find food nearby was met initially by some driving instructions. I informed the man I didn't have a car. His 2nd reaction was laughter. His third was to hand me a pizza leaflet. Nice.
I was joined mid pizza munching by Steve who had arrived a day earlier from Nashville and the two of us headed out via the hostel "shuttle" (aka someones car) downtown to spend an evening with the City Centre's number 1 attraction - Beale Street.
Renowned for its plentiful bars and live blues music Beale street has traditionally been the heart and soul of Memphis. I went with high expectations of a blues equivalent of Nashville what I actually found was rather disappointing.
We took a walk from one end to the other to see what was available and decided to bar hop for a bit just to sample what was on offer in various establishments. The first bar we took our money to was, unfortunately, a sign of things to come. A splattering of maybe 3 or 4 people and us. The Cardinals weer up on the screen behind the bar but there was little else there to make it worthwhile staying past an opening beer.
Our search for some life too us through several more bars of a similar ilk. Dead, soulless places. Maybe on the weekend it gets livelier here but after Nashville there was an undoubted disappointment in what lay before us.
We did eventually find a place with some live music and more of an atmosphere, our jubilation was short lived though on learning that 90% of those in the bar were fresh off a Contiki Tour. We ended up staying to they kicked us out at the midnight hour (not exactly rock'n'roll opening times!) and found our way to one final bar, in fact the only one we could find open and joined the handful of other people whiling the late hours away with another beer.
All in all Beale Street didn't just fail to impress it downright depressed. Maybe we were spoilt in Nashville. Maybe my expectations were too high but Beale Street just didn't cut it for me. Not one little bit.
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